Our review will be posted shortly. See the complete collection by clicking the image at left.
Prabal Gurung is a dress man. He’s built his reputation on the exposed shoulders of high-profile clients. “Cocktail and evening is solid,” he said at a Pre-Fall appointment, pointing out that daywear is where he focused his energies this season. Admirers of his tailoring have always been in the minority, but maybe not for long. There were some beautifully cut jackets in his new lineup, most notably a shawl-collar tuxedo with an inset silk bow at the waist, although another jacket with asymmetrical lapels came in a close second. And you can turn them around, and they’re just as interesting. Gurung has developed a habit of draping them from the shoulders. No cutting corners here. Pants come with contrast waistbands and taper to right above the ankle.
Still, a browse through the racks indicates that he’s developing smaller-ticket items alongside what he calls his “sportswear with couture ideals.” Printed T-shirts and T-shirt dresses constitute an expanding category, as do clingy fine-gauge knits. Denim is another area he’s dabbling in. A sheath with exposed-seam allowances and raw edges had a great fit. Moving up the price spectrum, he’s reworking some familiar pieces—peplum tops, a shirtdress—in simple cotton. But in the end with Gurung, it’s all about a dress. He showed all kinds in this collection—above the knee, to the floor, full-skirted, clingy. Among the best: a one-shoulder black-and-white number draped over a fitted turtleneck, a strapless party frock paired with a bolero-cum-cape, and a rose-print silk duchesse gown with a matching T-shirt tossed over the top that combined elegance with edge. Remove the tee, and it was a strapless dress—two knockouts for the price of one.
Dennis Basso is in a celebratory mood. Fresh off the thirtieth anniversary of his label, the furrier has opened a four-story shop in a Madison Avenue town house. “A mini Dennis Basso department store,” as he likes to call it. Along with his signature furs and evening gowns, the designer has put in great effort to be taken seriously as a maker of separates and accessories. For Pre-Fall, he teamed up with Brian Atwood to create a pair of sexy-but-not-too-revealing legging boots, which were worn under a houndstooth miniskirt. That same houndstooth print was transferred onto a fur sweatshirt, which, when thrown over a turtleneck, looked modern. Basso is obsessed with mixing high and low. “It used to be that women wouldn’t even wear sequins during the day,” he said. Now, he likes the way clients pair his cropped tweed jacket—embellished with artfully tarnished spangles and other beads—with a colorful ball gown. The jacket’s matching pencil skirt, on the other hand, was dialed down a notch when worn with a shearling bomber.
Diana Vreeland once said, “The eye has to travel.” These days, says Maria Cornejo, “the eye has to slow down a bit.” The designer is after a little bit of Zen in her life, and it came across in her Pre-Fall collection, with its prints lifted from nature. A blurry moss motif overlaid with a graphic block print made a big impact, and the black-and-white pebble pattern of an egg-shaped coat looked strong against the marble jacquard of a stretchy pencil skirt. Her approach to layering print this season was fairly fearless.
Elsewhere, she let the cut and silhouette of her clothes do the talking. Cornejo is known and loved for her easy sack dresses, but here she emphasized her sculptural yet androgynous tailoring; “They’re clothes for the girl who reads,” she says. “Finishing a book is aspirational right now.” The fabrics she’s using—stretch hessian and cotton découpé—have a lot of texture, but they’re not heavy, a key point for clothes that land in stores in the early part of the summer. It wouldn’t be a Maria Cornejo collection without a jumpsuit. This one came with a zip front, so her brainy girl can play the seductress if she wants to.
Why Go: Courchevel 1850 draws an international crowd during the winter season thanks to access to the world’s largest ski resort and a high concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants. Guests of l’Apogée ski onto the slopes from the hotel’s ski room in warmed boots and can return for lunch in its Champagne lounge (try the hot dogs with Périgord truffle). For …